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Bad Blood - A Bed for the Night

I walked out of Derry towards the border on a beautiful, cloudless afternoon, past the broken-down public houses, past the aban-doned shirt factory and the new housing estates and the sailing boats on the Foyle. It was Saturday. I was wearing a rucksack. When I crossed the border I would turn right and take the road to Lifford.

In half an hour I would be in the Republic of Ireland where the price of petrol would be much higher, where the price of drink would be a constant source of discussion and where just about everything else – new cars, hi-fi, televisions, videos – cost more than in the North.

The river widened. There was a smell of cut grass. Men were playing golf on the other side of the river; down below the road there were boys fishing.

The soldier at the border stepped out from his hut as I came towards him.

‘Walking, sir,’ he said to me.
‘I am,’ I said.
‘Where are you going, sir?’ he asked me.
‘To Lifford,’ I said.
‘You turn there, sir,’ he said, pointing to the road.
‘How far is it?’ I asked.
‘I don’t know sir, ten miles, twenty miles.’

I walked on towards the customs posts. The first one, which belonged to Her Majesty, was closed up. No one would dream of smuggling from the South into the North. The Irish customs offcial sat in the second hut, waving each car by. They were all locals, he said, he knew them; there was no point in stopping them, it only annoyed them. They were probably just driving over toget cheap petrol.

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